Still tension.

There is still very obvious tension between Muslims on the east side of the river and the Christians on the west. Its not surprising. The Christians have erected a huge Crucifix on the top of the mountain over looking the city and have the highest church towers I have ever seen.

The Muslims, for their part also have very high towers on their Mosques but have the loudest calls to prayer amplified over the city.

Some "official graffiti suggests all is well

Without doubt the most poignant reminders of the conflict are the many graveyards

All these grave stones are dated 1992 and mark the start of the war.

A mother will "never forget".